Exploring Somaliland: Visa Info, FlyDubai Flights & Solo Travel Tips
- Ankitha
- Nov 24, 2022
- 7 min read
Updated: Sep 1
On a whim, I took off and landed in a country that (technically) doesn’t even exist. This is Somaliland. No, it’s actually NOT a part of Somalia. Somaliland is now a country on its own, with its own currency and government. This is yet another country that shattered my every preconception this year. It was a pleasant surprise and beyond beautiful.
It was a far cry from the usual Western media fear mongering you see in the media. Is Somaliland safe for tourists? Surprisingly, yes. It is now an independent country with its own government, currency, and story—but it’s not still recognized by the international community as a country.
It really shakes up your preconceptions too—you can’t go 10 meters without a smile from a stranger, offering you qat or khat (more on this later). It was an enthralling and surprisingly fun trip.
In this Somaliland travel guide, I will tell you how you can go here safely and have a fantastic travel experience discovering offbeat African destinations.
Highlights:
Hargeisa. Berbera. Sheikh Mountains. Laas Geel cave paintings.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Flights + Visa
I flew directly with FlyDubai Hargeisa flights—a short direct flight to Hargeisa, the capital.
For the Somaliland visa from Dubai, you will need to apply at a Somaliland mission; remember you CANNOT travel to Somaliland with a Somalia visa and vice versa. Your visa has to be through Somaliland. If in Dubai, visit their office with a confirmed return ticket, tour + hotel booking. Pay $60 and get an e-visa copy by email in 48–72 hours. Once you land, you won’t be asked to pay extra—if you are, it’s likely a bribe. Carry your payment receipt with you and get a stamp. Simple.
Solo traveling. Are you required to wear a scarf?
As with any country in the world, be aware of your surroundings. Even more so in a country like this since you are not allowed to venture out without a guard irrespective of your gender.
People don’t see a lot of tourists, so there will be some curiosity. If they are up for a chat, be friendly. Most people are kind and welcoming of travelers since it’s a rare sight in these parts of the world. Solo female travel in East Africa is doable with the right mindset and precautions.
Best time to visit
Avoid the summer. I went in November and it was still warm, but it’s still the best time to visit.
Currency
Dollar is best in most parts of Africa. Change to local currency for tips + souvenirs.
Is it true you need an armed guard?
A guide/local help is better to avoid unnecessary confusion after you land. Someone who knows the local language and ways is highly recommended unless you have unlimited time to do this trip... in which case, independent traveling is doable. Although remember, as a tourist, you cannot venture out of the capital without an armed escort. This is the law.
The armed guard will just be with you in case of any emergencies; they don’t really do much. Rest assured this is merely a precaution set in place after a kidnapping of a foreigner many years ago. Either way, it’s a cool story to tell when you experience something like this for the first time.
Cost
Costs vary depending on the number of people. Supply-demand is real. Expect to shell out $50–60 for a hotel/night. For the tour, if you are three people, it could cost between $300–400 for a short 3/4 day trip; the math is $150/day for a guard + car with fuel.
Vegetarian Food
Not much fresh veggie food is available once you leave Hargeisa, but on one night, I got very lucky finding a veggie pizza in Berbera beach Somaliland. Heaven after no food for a while.
Where I stayed
Mansoor Hotel in Hargeisa. The manager, Khalid, will be happy to set you up with a local guide + armed guard. DM me on Instagram if you need his info.
In Berbera, I stayed at Allore Hotel. Nothing to rave about and a bit steep at $30 for one night, but what can you do?
Highlights
Hargeisa
As I got my passport stamped and exited the airport, I was greeted with cheerful smiles of “Welcome to Somaliland.” I was now officially in a country that wasn’t recognized by any government entity. So what’s the story? The world recognizes Somalia as being made up of one country with three areas—Somalia, Puntland & Somaliland. However, in the early '90s, Somaliland fought a war with Somalia, won, and declared themselves an independent country. While Somalia continues to have violent terrorism issues, this country has largely restored law and order and is a safe place to visit. There is not a lot to do in this chaotic capital, but you can take a walk around if you fancy. A visit to the camel market and the money market is kind of cool. Great inclusion for your list of things to do in Somaliland.
Sheikh Mountains
It’s hard to believe places like this exist in a country like Somaliland. This mountain is off the guidebooks even for a country as off the beaten track as this.
The drive up to Sheikh Mountains in Somaliland came as a breath of fresh air and a reprieve from the arid landscapes we have at home in Dubai.
There are a few different viewpoints you can hike to as well. The lush green mountains, the winding drive up, the picturesque scenery, and to top it off, the moody weather. What an exciting experience.
If you happen to make it to Somaliland, I highly recommend taking this long route on the way to Berbera. As I mentioned on stories, you will need a guide/driver + convoy + armed guard(s) to venture anywhere in the country. It turned out to be the favorite part of my trip. The jungle girl in me was happiest.
Berbera
Berbera, a partly ruined seaport city that sits amidst beautiful empty beaches. The first picture is me hopping onboard a boat laying still on the Somalian waters.
It was once an important trading hub in the region, the largest of its kind. As you can see here, it stands out for its colorful crumbling buildings.
It was damaged in the Somali civil war, so it reminded me of our trip to Massawa, Eritrea.
The beach could have easily been one in Dubai—so deserted and so incredibly cool to hang all by your lonesome.
From meeting Tariq the fisherman to the random men on the port, I got to meet many strangers who insisted on taking a picture and said, “Tell the world you met people in Somaliland and that they are very nice!” I get to interact with so many people from all walks of life on these trips—and as I often say, they help keep life in perspective.
Laas Geel
As the convoy car with an armed guard made a stop on an empty road, I finally arrived at the last stop on the trip—Laas Geel cave paintings, an isolated site of prehistoric cave art. Discovered by a French team in 2002, this site is one of Africa’s (and perhaps the world’s) greatest prehistoric art sites
It is undoubtedly the highlight and the biggest “tourist attraction” in a country as off the beaten track as Somaliland.
The best part was that the cave was still in impeccable condition—given they are exposed to air, the colors and patterns are so vivid. This is said to be one of the oldest and most beautiful cave paintings in Africa, estimated to be somewhere between 5,000–10,000 years old. What blows my mind is how are these colors so well preserved? Incredible, right?
There are a few different caves you can walk to, but the first one is the most impressive with over 300 simple drawings of human relations with cattle—a depiction of their lives back then. I thoroughly enjoyed hiking to the different caves and couldn’t recommend it enough.
Travel Tips:
🍃 This is a must-do on any trip to Somaliland. It’s the most touristy thing to do in the country.
🍃 It’s open to travelers BUT you need to apply for a permit to visit. It costs $25 per person and could take 2 days to process.
🍃 It’s an easy day trip from Hargeisa or you can stop on the way back from the coast.
Final Thoughts
Unreal, unequivocally beautiful, and as untouched as it gets. That defined my trip to this unheard-of country.
Tourism still barely exists here. In fact, more people travel to Antarctica than they do to Somaliland in a year. But IF you are adventurous enough to cross its borders, you will discover its long struggle for freedom and nomadic heritage. In just a few days, you can travel from its busy capital Hargeisa to the ancient port of Berbera, to its vast deserts and empty beaches, to discovering beautifully preserved rock art. Pretty great going for a country that isn’t even a country, right?
Negative emotions about a place are often rooted in fear and it holds us hostage, preventing us from discovering magical places like Somaliland. As I left the smiling people behind, there was hope that this would be a super epic trip—and it was definitely all that.
Go with an open mind!
Drop your comments below and show some love. Feel free to shoot me an email with your feedback.
Cheers,
Anki
To explore more African destinations, be sure to check out other blogs for additional insights.
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